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Most runners focus on running, not lifting. And they’re starting to hear – from doctors, general wellness journalists, and even, well, runners’ social media – that strength training is essential. Being stronger helps you run faster and avoid injury. Especially after 40. But that doesn’t make it any more fun to read – or implement. Going to the gym conjures up images of bicep curls, which have helped no runners – ever. But getting dumbbells at home just changes the venue, without changing the training experience. And, let’s be frank, runners don’t have the same relationship with a barbell that, say, an American football player does. So, what’s the best way to build an excellent home gym for runners?

The very best strength training setup is the classic tried-and-true formula of a barbell, weight plates, and a squat rack. We have ample guidance for each of these components. But this setup might be unsuitable for runners, and might result in overpaying for the value derived. We are submitting an alternative here that will deliver almost the same results, on a much lighter budget, and a much smaller footprint.

Build strength without the distraction of lifting technique

Let’s triangulate three oft-repeated pieces of strength wisdom from a runner’s perspective:

The modern runner faces a dilemma.

On one hand, the experts are clear:

1. Squats and deadlifts build unparalleled lower body strength for performance and injury prevention.
2. Progressive overload – lifting heavier over time – is the key to real strength gains, not endless reps with light weights.
3. Solid lifting technique is non-negotiable to prevent injury, especially at the heavier loads needed for true strength.
   • The runner inevitably thinks: “So, I have to spend time learning the complex technique for these lifts, to perform a kind of training that doesn’t even appeal to me, just because some experts now think I need it for my sport?” Understandably, that’s a turn-off. It feels like a distraction from the real training: running.

This is where traditional advice falls short for a runner. It forces a choice between dedication to running, and a confusing, time-consuming detour into barbell mechanics.

Enter the trap bar deadlift: the easiest way to build athletic strength

The trap bar deadlift is the cheat code for this kind of athlete. It’s a classic 80/20 solution: it requires 20% of the technique of squatting and deadlifting, but delivers 80% (or more) of the training value. (This is assuming the athlete uses the high handles; the low handles require a bit more skill, and deliver even more value, more like 95%).

It can’t be any easier to use. You step inside, crouch down until you can easily grab the handles, and stand up with the weight.

Here’s why the trap bar deadlift is ideal for athletes, and should be the central item in a home gym for runners:

• Versatile Movement: Blends the benefits of a hip hinge and a squat, hitting crucial running muscles effectively.
• Effortless Technique: Far simpler and more intuitive to learn than a traditional barbell deadlift, minimizing injury risk and frustration.
• Athletic Carryover: Generates more power (force expressed quickly) than traditional squats and deadlifts, translating directly to faster sprints and higher jumps.
• Reduced Spinal Load: The neutral grip and centered load are much kinder to the lower back, allowing for effective strength building without unnecessary strain.

So, what’s the right trap bar for a runner?

You plan on getting STRONG

Buy at Sunny Health

Lifting 200lbs is enough for you

Buy at Synergee Fitness

You’ve got the bar, but how are you going to load it? Weight plates.

Weight plates for a runner using a trap bar are really no different from weight plates loaded into a barbell. To get smart on weight plates, read our dedicated weight plate guide. I mean it: it tells you what you need to know to make the next decision.

And that decision is: how many, and which, bumper plates to purchase, at a minimum. The rationale is that you want bumpers to be what touches your floor, and the bumper should be the heaviest plate(s) you load onto your trap bar’s sleeves. However, when loading up additional weight, it might be a smarter move to use cast iron weight plates, which have a smaller diameter, and can often be cheaper on a $/lb basis. The reason you want the bumper to touch your floor is that rubber is going to be a little easier on your flooring, and a lot less clangy.

You also want at least half the total load to come from bumpers; otherwise, you risk damaging the bar. This is because when the full load comes to a stop, you are distributing the impact between the floor and the bar’s sleeves. Shifting too much of the burden on the bar’s sleeves can damage them over time. Ie) if you’ve loaded one 45lb bumper, and then intend on adding cast iron plates, make sure you add no more than 45lbs of cast iron plates. Two 25lb cast iron plates, for example, would not be recommended.

We think the winning combo is to get a set of bumper plates from Yes4All (such as their 160lb set), and then cast iron plates from CAP Barbell. This delivers the ultimate bang for the buck, and we’ve now built the centerpiece of our home gym for runners.

Read our take

Check Amazon price

Read our take

Check Amazon price

You’ve got the equipment. Now, how does a runner actually GET STRONG?

As a runner, your training is naturally biased towards volume and cardio. With trap bar deadlifts, you’re compensating where you are (literally) weak: you need to train differently.

You want to train in the three to five rep range (yes, that’s 3 to 5 reps). You don’t want to start with your 3 rep max or 5 rep max. But whichever one you choose, you want to start at a weight where you could only have done 2 more reps.

Training every three days, for, say, 3 sets of 3 reps, and then adding five pounds each session, will completely transform your strength profile as a runner within 6 to 8 weeks. Think about it: you start at 95lbs for a moderately challenging triple, and two months later, say, you’re grinding out 3 reps of 205lbs. There is no question that the new you will outrun the old you. This alone justifies building a runner’s home gym.

Next, a runner needs power endurance (that’s a thing)

So, you’re a runner, and you’ve enabled your first cheat code, which is to get strong. Now is the time to turn that strength into power for acceleration, and endurance where you can sustain that power. Think of the last 100 meters of a 5k run, where you’ve got to find an explosion of speed and energy under fatigue, to shave off some time and beat your personal records or the runner next to you.

Your secret formula is the kettlebell swing, which makes the kettlebell your weapon of choice.

The great thing about kettlebells is that they’re so versatile, you can get away with buying a single kettlebell.

We think that for men, the right weight is 35lbs/16kgs. And for women, it’s 12kgs.

The kettlebell swing is a relatively light, explosive exercise that mainly focuses on the core and the posterior chain. It provides fast hamstring action. Moving the weight so quickly is an expression of power, but unlike Olympic weightlifting or vertical jumps, it does not fry the Central Nervous System, nor does it deplete glycolytic energy reserves as quickly. This makes it a very good exercise for the 8 to 20 rep range, which means that power generation can be trained for endurance. This perfect for runners who are beginning their acceleration from a cruise speed rather than from a dead start. So, now our home gym for runners is building lower body and core strength, power, and endurance – which enhances running performance, in a way that running alone simply can’t.

What’s the right upper body training for a runner?

Most runners are skeptical that upper body strength is relevant for their sport. This is particularly true of long distance runners, but much less true of sprinters. A cursory glance at Olympic sprinters reveals that they are full-body muscular. Not bodybuilder style, but they look strong and lean. And it makes sense. The arm swing can add a bit of extra juice to a fast movement like a vertical jump or a sprint. The key is to have relative upper body strength: to be strong pound for pound, relative to your overall body weight.

As stated, the best setup for strength training is a barbell, rack, and weight bench (for upper body). But for runners, the much smarter setup is to use a Power Tower. The power tower allows the runner to develop upper body pushing and pulling strength, thanks to the dip bars and the pullup bar. These are bodyweight exercises, which means that the strength requirement scales with the runner’s bodyweight. As an added bonus, most power towers have armpads to allow for leg raises as an abs-training exercise.

So, honestly, the real issue with power tower shopping is that you can find good prices from unpronounceable Amazon vendors. It’s a flea market. These folks might not be around tomorrow. I can’t in good conscience recommend vendors I don’t understand, just because the product image looks similar to those from reliable vendors, and the price point is superior.

I’ve scoured the market, and oddly, it’s hard to find as good value for money in the States for a power tower as you can find in – again, oddly – Europe, and specifically, Decathlon. Their Corength 900 is a sturdy, well-priced, excellently designed product. There are excellent power towers available in the US, and there are cheap ones. There are not a lot of analogues to the Corength 900. That said, for a runner, upper body training is not central. Stamina is an established brand, and their Power Tower is a no-nonsense, no-frills, minimalist piece of equipment that reliably allows for pullups and dips at a $150 price point. This would be our recommendation for a runner that needs to strengthen their upper body, and turns our home gym for runners into a full body station.

The final piece: resistance bands

Bands can serve as a complement to the trap bar deadlift, to kettlebell swings, to assist with pullups and dips, and on their own as assistance accessories. For that reason, our last recommendation in a Runner’s home gym is to add a simple set of resistance bands, which ‘completes’ their our home gym for runners.

Your Strongest Miles Are Built at Home

Building a home gym doesn’t have to be complicated, and for a runner, it shouldn’t mean becoming a barbell-obsessed “gym rat”. The goal isn’t to master a new sport; it’s to build a stronger, more resilient body to support the sport you love. That’s how you build an excellent home gym for runners.

By focusing on a few high-impact, versatile tools, you can create a powerful, minimalist setup that directly translates to better performance on the road or track:

• The Trap Bar: Your secret weapon for building pure lower-body strength safely and efficiently, without the steep learning curve of a traditional barbell.
• The Kettlebell: The ultimate tool for developing power endurance, giving you that explosive finishing kick when you need it most.
• The Power Tower: The smart solution for building the essential, pound-for-pound upper body and core strength that supports a powerful running form.
• Resistance Bands: The final piece of the puzzle, perfect for warm-ups, accessory work, and keeping your joints healthy.

With this setup, you have everything you need to get stronger, run faster, and stay injury-free.

Now that you’ve planned your runner’s setup, see how these pieces fit into a broader philosophy in our Ultimate Starter Home Gym Guide.

CrossFit not only put more barbells in people’s hands than any other brand; in many ways, the minimalist Box design has set the blueprint for most people’s home/garage gyms, EVEN IF THEY DON’T TRAIN IN CROSSFIT.

The irony, then, is that CrossFit’s greatest strength – its variety – is also the biggest complication as we move from the ‘generally recommended’ minimalist home gym to a CrossFit home gym. Many elements stay the same; some need tweaks; and there are some fresh new elements to consider. Which means that, like the sport itself, a CrossFit home gym is going to cost a little more than a regular home gym. Since we hate overspending, we’ll let’s find the Minimum Viable CrossFit Home Gym.

So, what stays the same relative to our overall philosophy? The core four: we need a rack, a barbell, bumpers, and flooring. But that doesn’t address two of CrossFit’s defining traits: gymnastics and high-intensity cardio. To make space for all of that, we make our first CrossFit-specific tweak to the core: the rack needs to maximize floor space.

A Note from HGM: Our goal is to help you build the single best home gym for your specific needs. Anyone can tell you to splurge on the most expensive gear, but that’s rarely the smartest move. We believe in finding the “Minimum Viable Home Gym”— the perfect, curated set of equipment that delivers maximum results without wasting your money. This guide is our specific recommendation for the CrossFit athlete, which we derive by applying tweaks to our foundational philosophy, which we encourage you to check out via our complete Buyer’s Guide Directory.

CrossFit Home Gym Tweak 1.0: the rack must save space

Our top recommendation, and it’s not even close, is the PRx Pro Folding Rack. It gives you the full stability of a heavy-duty rack for your WODs and then virtually disappears against the wall, leaving you maximum floor space for burpees, box jumps, or a cardio machine. And it can handle Kipping pullups.

Check out the PRx Pro Folding Rack

If a folding rack isn’t in the budget, the next smartest space-saving option is a fixed wall-mounted rack. It takes up much less space than a full cage and is more affordable than a folding rack.

We think Titan’s wall-mounted T-3 delivers exceptional value here, with its 11-gauge steel at an extremely competitive price.

This design is essentially a mini rig, like what you’d find in any CrossFit box. Works perfectly for racking the barbell, kipping pullups, and hanging gymnastics rings.

Three if’s: must be folding; you don’t lift heavy/kip; and budget is key.

If price is still a consideration and a folding rack is non-negotiable, we think Synergee is worth a look, but only if you have the self-awareness that you’re not a very strong/heavy athlete (and that won’t change with training), such that your squats and kipping pullups aren’t generating a ton of explosive force the rack will have to absorb. It’s built of meaningfully thinner steel than the PRxPro or the Titan, so if you’re squatting less than 300lbs and not as active on the gymnastics side of CrossFit, it’s viable both as space saver and budget saver.

The 2nd CrossFit Home Gym tweak: gymnastics rings

Speaking of Gymnastics and speaking of Synergee, the best-in-class, high-value option available via your existing partners is the Synergee Wood Gymnastic Rings. Their wooden rings are solid in grip and build quality, making them a perfect fit. The Synergee rings are extremely price-competitive: they are priced similarly to the most popular budget-friendly wood rings on Amazon, typically in the $30-$40 range. While there are cheaper no-name brands, Synergee has a strong brand reputation for quality, making them a clear winner in the “best value” category. Premium brands like Rogue or Fringe Sport are significantly more expensive. Nothing screams “CrossFit gymnastics” like rings, and this tweak helps turn a generic home gym into a CrossFit home gym (or box, if you will).

The 3rd Cross Fit Home Gym tweak: cardio via full body bike

CrossFit loves expensive cardio. Why run outside for free if you can instead load up your space with multiple cardio machines? The SkiErg and the rower have become staples of CrossFit programming, but the full body bike reigns supreme as CrossFit’s centerpiece machine for cardio. The SkiErg and the rower have a skill threshold that make them a little less accessible for the weeknight warrior, and are a little clunkier to place around the garage or basement.

Our clear winner for a “smart value” air bike is the Sunny Health & Fitness Tornado Air Bike. While the Rogue Echo and Assault Bike are the premium brand names, the Sunny Tornado delivers a very similar, high-intensity workout at a much more accessible price point: $699 vs $895 for the Rogue Echo, and $749 for the classic Assault. The Echo costs 28% more, but I’m not convinced it’s 28% better. The Assault is not only $50 more, it’s not even a better bike.

And, to be clear: in my opinion, the Rogue Echo is indeed a better bike than Sunny Health’s Tornado, but the classic Assault Bike ISN’T. It just has a better known brand. The key difference is in belt drive vs chain drive; the Rogue Echo and the Sunny Tornado are belt drive, and the classic Assault Bike is chain drive.

More than meets the eye: belt drive vs chain drive

On the surface, most air bikes look the same: a big fan, pedals, and moving arms. But the most important difference is hidden inside: the drive system. This is what connects the pedals to the fan, and it comes in two types: chain drive and belt drive. For a home gym, choosing the right one is critical, especially for a $700+ item.

Chain Drive (The Old School Standard)

• What it is: A chain drive uses a metal bicycle chain, just like an outdoor bike. The AssaultBike Classic, a staple in many CrossFit boxes, uses this system.
• The Reality: Chains are durable and have a connected, mechanical feel that some purists like. However, they are loud. The metal-on-metal clatter, combined with the fan’s “whoosh,” can be overwhelming in a home or garage setting. They also require regular maintenance—the chain needs to be cleaned and lubricated to prevent rust and ensure it runs smoothly.

Belt Drive (The Modern, Superior Choice)

• What it is: A belt drive uses a high-strength, carbon-fiber-reinforced rubber belt instead of a metal chain. Premium bikes like the Rogue Echo and our “smart value” pick, the Sunny Health & Fitness Tornado, use this system.
• The Reality: A belt drive is a massive upgrade for a home gym owner for two key reasons:
  1. It’s Significantly Quieter: The belt runs smoothly and silently. The only sound you’ll hear is the whoosh of the fan, not the distracting clatter of a chain. This is a huge plus for anyone training at home, especially if you have family or neighbors to consider.
  2. It’s Virtually Maintenance-Free: Belts don’t rust, stretch, or require lubrication. You get a consistently smooth ride for years without any of the upkeep, which is a perfect fit for the “buy it right the first time” philosophy.

The HGM Verdict: While you’ll find plenty of chain-drive bikes in commercial gyms, for a home gym, the belt drive is the hands-down winner. It provides a quieter, smoother, and more reliable experience with zero maintenance. It’s the smarter long-term investment, so in this case, the differentiator is more than meets the eye.

Last tweak: better a few kettlebells than a ton of dumbbells

For most aspirational home gym owners, we love recommending adjustable dumbbells. Much to love, as long as you don’t drop them. But if you’re a CrossFitter, your dumbbell lifts are usually done for time or under some kind of circuit-driven pressure, which means you’re probably dropping your dumbbells once you finish the set. Which means that in YOUR case we are not going to recommend adjustable dumbbells, AT ALL.

What’s the alternative? Over a thousand dollars’ worth of fixed hex dumbbells? Sure, but if you were going to splurge like that, you aren’t reading this guide. The alternative we recommend is to use kettlebells for that kind of HIIT/metabolic training, which is usually the purpose for dumbbells in CrossFit.

By opting for kettlebells, we can obtain a similar training effect, but we can keep the purchase minimalist (instead of a massive, expensive set of hex dumbbells and their associated storage): this is the smarter, more versatile, and more space-efficient choice for a home box.

Recommendation: We should recommend a “starter pair” of kettlebells that covers the most common workout weights. A 35lb (16kg) and a 53lb (24kg) kettlebell is a perfect, versatile combination that allows an athlete to perform the vast majority of CrossFit kettlebell movements (swings, snatches, goblet squats, etc.). And frankly, the Amazon Basics Cast Iron Kettlebells work wonders here, representing the best value.

That’s the biggest adjustment to the core.

Rounding out the core: bar, bumpers, flooring

For bumpers, we think the smart pick is Yes4All’s set, and we love Vulcan’s mixed use Bravo barbell for CrossFitters. Horse stall mats is the hands-down flooring winner. Read our assessment of each as well as our dedicated guides on weight plates, barbells, and essential accessories (including flooring).

Want to nerd it out with our Ultimate Guide (really, it’s over 40 pages) on all the core Home Gym considerations? It’s free, and Subscriber-only.

The thinking on vertical jump training has gone from “it’s all genetics” to “it’s totally trainable”. Personally, I think genetics DOES have a huge say on what your ceiling is, but most people are several inches to even half a foot or a whole foot away from their ceiling, and the right training gets you there. THP Strength is the best in the game at this kind of training, while Garage Strength is more of a generalist program that will undoubtedly carryover to explosiveness and vertical jump. Both of them have a barbell-first approach (notice the word ‘strength’?), which we think carries over perfectly to the home gym philosophy of Home Gym Market. Vertical jump equipment isn’t actually different from other strength training, it just prioritizes some kinds of equipment and deprioritizes other kinds.

A Note from HGM: Our goal is to help you build the single best home gym for your specific needs. Anyone can tell you to splurge on the most expensive gear, but that’s rarely the smartest move. We believe in finding the “Minimum Viable Home Gym”— the perfect, curated set of equipment that delivers maximum results without wasting your money. This guide is our specific recommendation for the Vertical Jump training, which we derive by applying tweaks to our foundational philosophy, which we encourage you to check out via our complete Buyer’s Guide Directory for key equipment categories.

The biggest difference between vertical jump training vs other kinds of athletic strength training is that Olympic lifting variants are non-negotiable, which has a number of equipment selection implications. Namely: bumper plates, bar whippiness, and a very secure and stable squat rack become essential, not mere “nice to haves”.

As a result, your rack, barbell, and plates must work together as a system designed for safety and performance when moving weight dynamically.

The Big Three Non-Negotiable Vertical Jump Equipment

1. Bumper Plates (Essential for Drops)

The Logic: Unlike traditional cast iron plates, bumper plates are made of dense rubber and are specifically designed to be safely dropped from overhead without damaging the plates, your barbell, your floor, or yourself. When you’re performing a snatch or a clean and jerk, this is not a luxury; it’s a necessity. And since you will be performing Oly lift variants for vertical jump training, this is essential vertical jump equipment.

Our Picks:

• Best Value: The Yes4All Bumper Plate Set provides a durable, reliable set at an excellent price point for those starting out.
• Premium Pick: The Vulcan Alpha Bumper Plates are a step up in quality and durability for the more serious athlete.

What about Rogue and Eleiko? These are great brands, but you are here to train, not to enter a CrossFit or IWF competition. You’ll end up massively overspending for no discernible benefit.

2. The Barbell (28mm for “Whip”)

The Logic: For Olympic lifts, you need a barbell with good “whip”—the ability for the bar to flex under load and then snap back. This is primarily determined by the diameter of the bar shaft. A 28mm diameter bar is the standard for Olympic lifting and provides the necessary whip for dynamic movements. This is a key difference from the thicker, stiffer 29mm power bars. While some vertical jump coaches might have you only do plyos and slow lifts and skip the Olys, that’s unlikely. The barbell is indispensable vertical jump equipment, and some are better than others.

Our Picks:

• Best Value Oly Bar: The Synergee Open Bar features a 28mm shaft and fast-spinning needle bearings, making it the perfect entry-point for a training program centered around power cleans (which is what the best vertical jump programs will do). It is an intermediate-level Oly bar at an entry-level price point.
• Top All-Arounder: The Vulcan Bravo Barbell, with its 28.5mm “sweet spot” diameter, is a fantastic hybrid option for athletes who mix Olympic lifts with traditional strength work. If for whatever reason your coach or your program calls for a blend of slow strength and plyos, instead of Oly lifting (or only occasional hang cleans etc), then this is the right bar. It’s a solid, general purpose barbell at a lower-mid price point.

3. The Squat Rack (Stability First)

The Logic: most vertical jump athletes are deep squatting in the mid-300’s lbs, so frankly most of our recommended racks work just fine. However, deep squats are only a small part of the vertical jump training protocol; plenty of elite coaches, whether THP Strength or PJ Fabritz, often advocate quarter squats, which are loaded much heavier. Advanced programming in THP Strength will often call for pin squats and other lifts where you need more than just unracking off off the J-Cups. THP also tends to program very heavy calf raises, which you want to do inside a cage with pins instead of from a J-Cup. All put together, a vertical jump trainee with a mid-300’s deep high bar squat might be quarter squatting or doing calf raises in the 600’s. This starts to require an 11 gauge rack.

In addition, a full power rack (cage) with safety pins is much preferable to a squat stand or half rack. We know that some of the best dunkers out there have a squat stand, but you’re not them (yet), are you? We much prefer a four-post design, which provides a much safer and more secure environment for this style of training. The choice then comes down to your flooring and willingness to bolt down.

Our Picks:

• Top Pick (If you can bolt down): The Titan T-3 Power Rack. It’s an 11-gauge, “buy it for life” rack that, once bolted to a solid foundation, will handle any explosive lift you can throw at it.
• Top Pick (If you cannot bolt down): The Rugged Warrior Power Rack. This 2×3, 11-gauge rack is a tank that provides immense stability without needing to be bolted down, making it the superior choice for most home setups. Rugged is not a well-known brand, but we think this makes the product the best kept secret in the market.

We really like both of these Titan options and we think that for they deliver top-notch bang for the buck, but admittedly, they can be a bit above budget for a lot of people. The cheapest cage we feel safe recommending is the Fitness Reality 810XLT. It’s a 14 gauge 2×2, but it has handled a 730lb crash from shoulder height, and remained intact.

Supporting Cast: Other Vertical Jump Equipment

1. Essential Foundation: Flooring

The Logic: A stable rack and bumper plates require a proper foundation. Heavy-duty, 3/4-inch rubber flooring (like horse stall mats) is essential to protect your floor from the impact of dropped weights and to provide a stable, non-slip base for your rack.

Look at Horse Stall Mats

2. Essential Accessory: Resistance Bands

The Logic: Bands are a crucial tool for any explosive athlete, perfect for dynamic warm-ups, mobility work, and adding accommodating resistance to your main lifts to build power through the entire range of motion.

Look at Resistance Bands

3. Dunkers love Hip Thrusts, so you need a barbell pad

The Logic: Hip thrusts are one of the single most effective exercises for building the powerful glutes required for a higher vertical jump. A high-quality, dense foam pad for the barbell isn’t a luxury; it’s an essential tool that allows you to perform this key exercise safely and comfortably. I mean, have you ever tried to do hip thrusts straight against the barbell? It HURTS and it BRUISES.

Buy a Barbell Pad

Smart Savings (What You DON’T Need for Vertical Jump Equipment)

This is where we save you money. For a vertical jump-focused program, you can skip several common home gym items.

You Don’t Need an Incline Bench: A high-quality flat bench is perfectly sufficient for the accessory work required.

Dumbbells are an Accessory, Not a Central Item: Unlike in bodybuilding, heavy dumbbells are not a primary tool here. A single pair of moderate-weight dumbbells for accessory work is all that is needed.

A Box is Not Always Necessary: While a dedicated plyo box is great, a sturdy weight bench can often serve the same purpose for essential exercises like step-ups and depth jumps, saving you both money and space.

Want to have a more expansive view of our philosophy and our curation? Check out our Guides and our Limited Selection.

A rack, a bench, and a barbell are the undisputed heart of a serious home gym. But the big-ticket items are only half the story. The true functionality and versatility of your space will be unlocked by a small set of high-impact, essential home gym equipment accessories.

The thing with accessories is that they can quickly sprawl out of control. If there has ever been a space to be 80/20, or even 90/10, or even 99/1, it’s with deciding which accessories are essential and which are optional. (The idea that 20% of the items deliver 80% of the value).

These are the tools that fill the gaps, add variety to your training, and protect both you and your investment. We’ve curated a list of the “must-have” items that will complete your home gym, ensuring you get the most out of every single workout.

1. Proper Flooring – not small ticket, but arguably the most essential

Before you move in a single piece of equipment, you need to protect your floor. While many advocate for horse stall mats, which are effective but can have a strong odor, a set of 1/2-inch or 3/4-inch thick interlocking rubber tiles is the professional standard for a dedicated space. This will protect your floor from deadlifts and even dropped weights, while also providing a stable, non-slip surface for lifting. For those on a tighter budget or in a temporary space like an apartment, interlocking EVA foam mats are a cheap, comfortable, and effective alternative for floor-based exercises and light dumbbell work (housing all your other home gym equipment accessories).

2. What the Hell, Kettlebell accessory or even a standalone item

A kettlebell is one of the most versatile pieces of equipment you can own. It’s best known for the kettlebell swing, an exercise with the unique superpower to train explosiveness and cardio simultaneously. For most men starting out, a single 35lb kettlebell is the ideal weight, perfect for swings, goblet squats, and rows. This is one item where buying used makes a lot of sense; as long as the handle is part of a single, solid casting and isn’t welded on, an old, beat-up kettlebell will perform just as well as a new one and often looks even more badass.

3. Slack for buck: Resistance Bands are the most obvious home gym equipment accessory

Resistance bands are cheap, take up virtually no space, and are incredibly versatile. A good set of bands can be used on their own for warming up, mobility work, bicep curls, and shoulder presses. You can also wrap them around your dumbbells or kettlebells to add accommodating resistance, making your weights feel heavier at the top of the lift. We recommend a set of 4-5 bands of varying thickness, which can provide up to 85lbs of resistance, or even more when used together.

4. Squats for the arms: Parallettes are like squats for the arms and therefore an essential home gym equipment accessory

While a pull-up bar is a fantastic tool, it’s often part of the squat rack itself. For adding high-value upper body and core exercises, we are huge fans of freestanding “parallette” dip stands. An investment of around $60 gives you a dedicated station for dips (the squat for your arms), bodyweight rows, and core exercises like L-sits. None of the exercises you do with parallettes are easy, but they deliver serious gains and add a crucial dimension to your training that weights alone cannot.

5. The Cardio Option: The Jump Rope

While our first recommendation for cardio is always to “run outside,” if you must have a dedicated piece of indoor cardio equipment on a tight budget, nothing beats the jump rope. It is incredibly cost- and space-effective, and the potential cardio and conditioning gains are undeniable.

If you’re looking at Essential Accessories, you’re probably quite ahead in your home gym planning, but to have the full view, make sure you look at our Ultimate Guide.

Everyone loves dumbbells. A single pair is often top-of-mind for any home gym buyer, but it doesn’t go very far. Buy too many, and you go TOO far—in both space and budget. We’re going to show you how to be a genius dumbbell buyer, instead of a dumb one.

A single pair of fixed dumbbells? A radical alternative.

First, a radical thought: if you think you only want a single pair of dumbbells because of your budget, buy a high-quality set of resistance bands instead. They’re cheaper, more versatile, and will serve you better. The End.

Fixed or Adjustable? The core home gym dumbbell choice.

For the rest of you, your biggest choice is between a single pair of adjustable dumbbells or building out a full set of fixed ones. The right answer depends on your space, budget, and workout style.

If your training is mostly bodybuilding and you have the room and the budget, then decking your gym out with a full rack of fixed dumbbells is a fantastic luxury.

However, if you’re like most of us—using dumbbells as a key but not exclusive part of your routine—then it’s hard to suggest anything BUT a good pair of adjustable dumbbells. And, if you have neighbors below you, then it’s practically your best and only option for a home gym – period.

Adjustable dumbbells generally come in two types: selectorized (dial-adjusting), where you turn a dial or move a pin to change weights instantly, and spin-lock (swivel-adjusting), where you manually add or remove plates with a collar. Dial-adjusting dumbbells also come in two basic categories: up to 50 or 55lbs, and up to 90lbs.

Our Top Home Gym Dumbbell Recommendations

So, what should you actually buy? The right home gym dumbbell choice depends on your goals and budget. Here are our top recommendations, broken down by category.

The Best Value for Beginners: Yes4All Dial Dumbbell

Why: While not the absolute best adjustable dumbbells on the market, the Yes4All set is our top budget pick because the market is full of comparable quality dumbbells selling for almost 50% more. The design jumps in 10lb increments, which isn’t ideal, but it’s a trade-off for the incredible value. If you treat them with care, they will do their part. In a bell curve of dial-adjusting dumbbells, the Yes4All sits in the middle for quality but stands out for price, making it the right choice for a buyer solving for budget.

The Logic: For most home gym owners, the biggest challenges are space and budget. A selectorized (dial-adjusting) dumbbell set is the perfect solution, giving you a huge range of weights in the footprint of a single pair. You get the convenience of an entire dumbbell rack for a fraction of the cost and space.

Our Pick: The Yes4All 55lb Dial Dumbbell

Best Heavy Adjustable Option

Titan Fitness Loadable Dumbbell Handles

• The Logic: What if you already own a barbell and a good set of weight plates? The smartest and most economical choice for adding heavy dumbbells to your gym is a pair of loadable handles. You’re essentially buying handheld barbells that use the same 2″ Olympic plates you already own, giving you unrivaled progressive overload without buying a whole new set of weights.

• Our Pick: The Titan Fitness Loadable Dumbbell Handles
  • Why: This is the ultimate “smart money” choice for the heavy lifter. If you’ve already got a barbell setup at home, these handles are essentially a dumbbell cheat code. They turn your existing weight plates into a heavy-duty dumbbell set, making them an Einstein-tier smart purchase for any established home gym.

Best Budget option (“Old School” Spin-Lock Dumbbells)

CAP Barbell Spin-Lock Set

• The Logic: If you’re starting from absolute zero and need the most cost-effective, reliable way to introduce dumbbell training into your home, the classic spin-lock set is the answer. It’s a time-tested design that provides a durable, versatile set of weights for a rock-bottom price.
• Our Pick: The CAP Barbell Spin-Lock Set (105 lb)

• Why: This set is our recommendation for one reason: it’s the cheapest, most dependable way to get started with dumbbells from a known brand. As you’d expect at this price, there are trade-offs. The most critical is that these cast iron plates use a non-standard 1-1/8″ opening and are not compatible with your main barbell. However, if you are building a home gym without a barbell and need a self-contained, foundational dumbbell set at the lowest possible cost, this is the most budget-friendly entry point into strength training.

Liked our home gym dumbbell guide? Check out our comprehensive (it’s a whopper) Ultimate Home Gym guide, covering everything from squat racks to barbells to cardio options.

The whole purpose of barbell training and having a squat rack is progressive overload.  How do you achieve progressive overload?  By loading up weight plates.  A seemingly standard and almost commoditized item also has – yup, you guessed it – a surprising amount of complexity behind it.  Bumpers vs cast-iron; rubber or urethane-coated; competition plates; change plates, etc.  I’ve used every kind of weight plate available, and bought almost every kind too, and I’m giving you this weight plate buyer guide to navigate this landscape.  

The very first dividing line is a simple question: “Will you be dropping your weights?” Your answer to this determines which of the two main families of plates you should focus on.

Bumper Plates: If you perform Olympic lifts (like the snatch or clean and jerk), or if you don’t want to control the eccentric portion of your deadlifts, then you will need bumper plates. They are made of dense rubber and are specifically designed to be safely dropped without damaging the plates, your barbell, your floor, or yourself.

Cast Iron Plates: If you are focusing on the “slow lifts” (squat, bench press, overhead press) and have good control over your deadlifts, then you can save a lot of money with classic cast iron plates. They are durable and take up less space on the bar, but they cannot be safely dropped.

Either way, in this weight plate buyer guide, I don’t advocate competition plates or plates with exotic rubber composition.  If you’re competing, you’ll need them, and you aren’t going to be reading this guide.  If you’re reading this guide, you’re probably not competing in Olympic weightlifting, so there is no reason for you to overpay.  Unless, of course, you have cash to spare and you simply like the way they look and feel.  

Size does matter

Now, let’s talk about the key physical difference between them: diameter. The IWF standard for bumper plates is 450mm (about 17.7 inches). All quality bumper plates, from 10lbs to 45lbs, will have this same diameter. Iron plates, however, get smaller as they get lighter.

This brings us to a pro-tip for those who want a mixed setup. I personally have a mixed line-up in my home gyms, as bumpers tend to have a higher $/lb cost than iron plates. If you go this path, you must ensure that your bumper plates are always taking the initial impact. For example, if you put a 45lb bumper on the bar first and then add smaller 25lb iron plates, only the bumper will touch the ground. This is fine, but you must ensure the total weight of the bumpers is equal to or greater than the iron plates to avoid putting undue stress on your barbell.

Show me the money: how not to blow the budget

Having said that, regardless of bumper or iron, the three core drivers you’re looking out for are: “true” cost ($/lb), accuracy (does it weigh what it says it weighs?), and overall shape and size.

Any weight plate buyer guide will talk about money – and how to spend it wisely. I look at 45lb plates to set the standard floor for $/lb prices, and then I know that they’ll only go up.  $2/lb is an excellent price for simple black bumpers or cast iron plates, but up to $2.5 is still a decent price.  At $3/lb, you’re either going to demand a premium in quality, or you’re better off still hunting for another vendor.  Once you get down to 10lb plates, you could easily be looking at $4 to $6 a pound even on the lower end of the spectrum.  

This means you want to buy in bulk.  You’re solving for the best blended $ price per pound, and, provided you’re strong enough, you want those lbs to come in the form of larger plates rather than smaller.  250lb weight sets (two pairs of 45’s, a pair of 25’s, and a pair of 10’s) could be found for $550 to $600, which represents a competitive blended price, and allows a beginner room to grow.

That said, when it comes to budget optimizing, if your local Facebook Marketplace has a vibrant home gym scene, buying used is probably the smartest choice.

Accuracy & Tolerance: Does it Weigh What it Says?

Simply put, shoddy manufacturers don’t respect the actual weight.  A 45lb plate could weigh 47lbs or 43lbs.  This is where, in general, brand and higher cost are the signals that accuracy will be higher.  Personally, almost all of my plates are unbranded, so that’s how my wallet voted.  On this front, buyer beware.  I have a pair of Reebok-branded 45lbs and a pair of Ziva urethane plates, and they definitely “feel” higher quality than the generics, but I haven’t gone and weighed each and every plate.  That said, most of my generics are either black bumpers or rubber-coated plates.  My cast iron plates are mostly rounding out my set.

A note on shape: plates are either round, or octagonal.  The main difference is whether you plan on lifting from the floor (ie. deadlifts or Olympic lifts).  If so, it behooves you to choose round plates.  If you’re lifting off the rack (squats, bench press, shoulder press, etc) then it makes no difference either way.

Pro-Tip: Understanding “Made in USA” and Plate Sourcing

A lot of consumers are looking for “Made in USA” plates.  For a few vendors, “Made in USA” is part of their brand identity; if a vendor isn’t making that point loud and clear, safe to say their are mainly sourcing from China.  However, when it comes to black bumper plates, the vast majority, even those from “Made in USA”-type vendors, come from China.   Something to keep in mind when shopping around.  Special plates – hi-temp, competition, colored, etc – will either come from the USA or China, but the entry-level black bumpers almost always come from China, regardless of vendor.  

How Many Plates Should You Buy? A Practical Guide

Weight plates are where a home gym budget can quickly get out of control. Your goal is to buy enough weight to consistently challenge yourself through progressive overload, without overspending.

• The Ideal Starting Point: A 250lb Set. Most reputable vendors will allow you to build or buy a starter set of around 250lbs. A great combination is two pairs of 45s, a pair of 25s, and a pair of 10s. For most people, this is a perfect, cost-effective way to start, providing plenty of room to grow while focusing on the most valuable plates.
• Adjusting Upward: If you’re already quite strong, you’ll simply need more 45lb plates. Don’t buy more sets; just add pairs of 45s, as they offer the best cost per pound.
• Adjusting Downward: If you don’t plan on lifting heavy, you can build a set à la carte. However, I strongly recommend that every lifter own at least one pair of 5lb and 2.5lb plates. These “change plates” are essential for making small, consistent jumps in weight, which is the key to long-term progress.
• A Note on 35lb Plates: For most home gym owners, 35lb plates are a luxury, not a necessity. They are common in commercial gyms for convenience, but you can achieve the same weight combinations with your 25s and 10s.

Excited to shop for actual weight plates?

Buying weight plates doesn’t have to be complex. It boils down to a few key priorities:

1. Choose Your Style: Decide if your lifting style (dropping weights) justifies the higher cost of bumper plates, or if durable, space-saving cast iron is right for you.
2. Buy for Value: Optimize your blended cost-per-pound by buying in sets and checking the used market.
3. Prioritize the Basics: Don’t get distracted by exotic plates. A standard, reasonably accurate set of iron or bumper plates is all you will ever need to get incredibly strong.

Know what you want? Check out our Weight Plate gallery, to find the right option for you.

Now that you’ve read the weight plate buyer guide, see how it all comes together in our Ultimate Starter Home Gym Guide.

The squat rack is the core of any serious home gym, and choosing one can feel incredibly complex. It’s the single piece of equipment that unlocks the safest and most effective barbell training, but the terminology is a minefield—power racks, half racks, spotters, J-Cups, steel gauge… how do you make sense of it all to choose a squat rack?

The truth is, for the vast majority of us, the ideal setup is simpler than you think. This guide will help you focus on the fundamentals: Safety, Space, and Customizability.

Most guides will push a long list of technical features at you that you don’t understand. We’ll explain those features, but this guide is different. We believe your decision should be driven by your reality: the space you have and the budget you’re working with. That’s why our final recommendations are structured around solving for those two constraints first.

You can see them below. Ultimately, you want to figure out in which quadrant you sit. The below is an example of the thinking, before we analyze racks in depth.

The Main Types of Racks (Explained Simply)

Racks come in three basic shapes: a cage (four connected uprights); a half rack (two connected uprights); and stands (two detached uprights). A “power” rack USUALLY refers to a cage, but more by habit than by intrinsic meaning. Each structure can be somewhat customized and have their own sub-variants, but these are the basics.

I’m not going to pretend they’re all equally valid: your starting position should be to buy a CAGE, and you would only consider a half rack or squat stands if you’re facing significant space and/or budget constraints. Still, even if it’s a cage, how do you choose a squat rack?

What Actually Matters for Your First Rack?

Once you’ve decided on the type of rack, you need to judge its quality. The good news is you only need to look at a few key features to know if a rack is solid or something you should avoid when it’s time to choose your squat rack. Let’s break them down.

Stability: Frame Construction & Steel Gauge

The stability of a rack comes from its structure. A cage is connected at the floor by steel beams on the sides and usually the back, giving it immense stability. A half rack is usually only connected at the back. Squat stands aren’t connected at all. The more the steel is attached, a more stable the rack. Simple as that.

Steel gauge refers to thickness, and yes, a lower number is thicker. Reputable vendors use either 14-gauge (2mm) or 11-gauge (3mm). 11-gauge is the standard for commercial gyms designed to withstand constant, heavy use by hundreds of athletes. For a home gym, 14-gauge is absolutely fine and will handle any weight you can throw at it.

Now, the following opinion breaks with the conventional wisdom from affiliate marketers: 14-gauge is absolutely fine for you. Check out this video of a powerlifter squatting 730lbs on a rack built with 14-gauge steel. If you’re reading this guide, you don’t squat 700lbs, and you will likely never get close. You are never going to exceed the weight capacity limit of a quality cage built with 14-gauge steel, so it’s a perfectly safe choice for a squat rack.

My personal experience? I’ve always gone the 14-gauge route for my own cages, though I’ve found other formulations tempting. My biggest mistake was that once I bought a rack from a seemingly reputable brand that did NOT specify the steel gauge. Imagine my surprise and disappointment when I discovered it was 16-gauge. Sixteen-gauge, folks, is unreliable trash. If the steel gauge isn’t clearly listed, it’s a hard pass. It must be at least 14-gauge.

Compatibility: Upright Dimensions & Hole Spacing

The uprights are the vertical posts of the rack. They typically come in 2×2”, 2×3”, or 3×3” dimensions. The main reason this matters is that your accessories (J-Cups, safeties, etc.) must be compatible with your upright size.

Hole spacing and diameter also impact what attachments you can use. Most holes are either 1” or 5/8” in diameter. The key is to avoid vendors with highly customized or proprietary dimensions, as this locks you into their (often more expensive) ecosystem of accessories.

Safety & Usability: J-Cups & Safeties

J-Cups are the J-shaped hooks that hold your barbell. Good ones are lined with a protective plastic called UHMW to prevent damage to your bar. Safeties are the non-negotiable feature that will save you from injury on a failed lift. In a cage, these are typically long steel pins. On a half rack, they are external “spotter arms.” In either case, ensure they are sturdy and well-constructed.

Customizability: Must-Have Attachments

The most common and valuable attachment is a pull-up bar, which often connects the uprights and adds stability. My other top three recommendations are resistance bands (a cheap and versatile alternative to a lat pulldown machine), dip bars, and weight horns for storing your plates (which also adds stability to the rack).

Our top squat rack recommendations overall

HGM take – “To Bolt Down, or Not Bolt Down?”:  when we’re looking at the mid-range in terms of budget (c. $600) and footprint, we’ve got two clear favorite picks. In terms of specs, an astute reader will notice that they’re both 2×3 11 gauge cages, but that’s not truly why we’re picking them; after all, I’m willing to die on the hill of ‘2×2 and 14 gauge is truly enough for most people’. What we really like is that in addition to the thick steel and cross-accessory compatibility, you’re getting Westside spacing. The combination is that these racks are commercial grade in terms of stability; have pull-up bars built-in; and offer maximum customizability via accessories.

The Titan T-3 is a notorious and divisive product in the home gym community. It famously brought Rogue-level, heavy-duty features (like 11-gauge steel and Westside spacing) to a much more accessible price point; its uncanny design similarity to Rogue’s R3 made it the rack that Rogue customers love to hate.  Brass tacks: for the serious lifter who wants a “buy it for life” rack without the premium price tag and is able to bolt it down, the T-3 is arguably the best deal on the market.  And since this is very much the reality for most home gym buyers, we think this is the best pick for most people.

But, bolting down is not for everyone (in fact, on a personal level, I try to avoid bolting anything anywhere as much as I can – that’s a personal foible I readily admit to). The Rugged Warrior shares pretty much all of the T3’s virtues and specs, except it doesn’t need to be bolted down. Now, to be clear: Rugged is a less well-known brand than Titan. This might be off-putting for some (though as noted above, Titan’s brand itself can be off-putting to some). I still feel comfortable recommending Rugged because they exclusively use Fitness Factory – a well-established vendor and a long track record in customer service – as a distributor. The Rugged Warrior can often be on sale for $595, which we think is a killer price for what you get.

Okay, that’s the top pick: what does something a bit more Premium look like? Enter the X3.

This is another Titan – and we have several non-Titan recs below for more specific budget/space considerations. However, against most other racks, the Titan X-3 is like choosing between a Toyota and a Lexus. The Toyota Corolla will get the job done reliably for years. But the Lexus offers a superior level of build quality, more premium features, and a more satisfying user experience. It offers you more than you need (and you know it), but it’s a smart, high-value way to get a luxury-tier product without paying the full ‘German luxury’ price (which in our world would be the Made in USA racks). We love that it’s flat foot; the 30″ depth is fantastic because you can place the four weight holders on one of the uprights and the plates won’t get in the way of your lifting; and at 3×3 11 gauge, this thing is a tank.

To be clear, you can go even more premium. As stated previously, Titan picked up a bit of a reputation for putting out near-identical models to Rogue, at a Made in China price point. Rogue is the Made in USA premium choice. We recommend one of their racks below, but overall, I find it a little hard to ‘regularly recommend’ them due to price point. I’m fully supportive of a higher price point for the Made in USA value proposition – both the quality control, and the local employment that comes with it. The thing is, you’re not just paying for that. Their margins also account for their long-time sponsorship of the CrossFit games, etc. Brand equity needs to be monetized somehow…

Now, for the budget vs space picks…

Our Top Recommendations to Choose a Squat Rack based on Space and Budget

Here’s a simple framework to choose your squat rack based on the two most common constraints: space and budget.

1. If you have space but a tight budget: The Budget Cage

• The Logic: You get all the safety and versatility of a full cage at the most affordable price point. This is the best bang-for-your-buck for anyone with a dedicated garage or basement space. Look for a solid, 2×2″, 14-gauge power rack from a reputable budget-friendly brand.
• REP PR 1100: Not the absolute cheapest in the category, but the best in the category: this delivers on every aspect you need. It can handle 700lbs, has a multigrip pullup bar, only about 2″ between holes (so, a lot of room for accessories), safety pins, and high quality J-Cups. At $379.99, there are slightly cheaper racks around, but REP’s reputation for quality is unmatched in this segment.
• Its fraternal twin, the REP PR 1000, is just as good a choice (and it’s what I got my dad, with a strong focus on safety). It has two built in weight storage horns, but that takes up a bit more floor space (which is why we recommended the 1100). Its pullup bar is standard instead of multigrip. Its biggest advantage is closer hole spacing, which means more flexibility for choosing at what height to place your J-Cups. But, if you have the budget, then getting it with the weight horn attachments is the smarter move.
• The cheaper alternative is the Fitness Reality 810XLT. It’s not as good as the Rep models, but it gets the job done for cheaper and with the same space requirements.

2. If you have the budget but not the space: The Premium Space-Saver

• The Logic: When space is your absolute biggest constraint, you need smart engineering. A high-quality, wall-mounted folding rack is the ultimate solution, allowing you to have a full-strength power rack that virtually disappears when you’re done training.
• PRx Performance Pro Folding Rack: The PRx Performance Pro Folding Rack is the undisputed king of this category. Famous for its appearance on Shark Tank, PRx patented a vertical folding system that is simply brilliant. Made with heavy-duty 11-gauge steel, it’s a no-compromise rack that you can fold up against the wall in seconds. For those training in a tight garage who still need to park a car, the PRx isn’t just a good option—it’s the only option.
• I always advocate spotter arms, for safety. PRx’s are a little pricey, but these here are an affordable alternative.

3. If you have both budget and space: The “Forever” Rack

• The Logic: This is the no-compromises option. You get maximum safety, stability, and a lifetime of customizability with a huge ecosystem of available attachments. Look for a premium, 11-gauge, 3×3″ power rack from a top-tier brand.
• The Rogue RM6 Monster Rack 2.0 (a mouthful) is, as its name suggests, a SIX (yes, 6) upright monster: the basic version starts at $2,855, but with six uprights that must be bolted into the ground, this is a statement that your home gym will outlast us all. Plate storage is built into the third pair of uprights, and it feels cavernous inside the rack. It uses safety straps instead of pins, which is considered premium for ease of height selection as well as not being noisy. Holes are on all four sides of the uprights, allowing for unparalleled attachments. And, as far as we know, it simply HAS NO WEIGHT LIMIT.
• The RM6 is probably the dream for most deep-pocketed home gym owners, but the prize to the most overbuilt, bomb-proof, made in USA rack in the big ticket category is the EliteFTS Collegiate Power Rack.

4. If you are limited in both budget and space: The Compact Starter Rack

• The Logic: This is the most pragmatic starting point to train safely with a barbell when both space and funds are tight. Look for a budget-friendly half rack with spotter arms, or a pair of high-quality independent squat stands that include reliable safety features.
• CAP Barbell CS7000F – the name is unpronounceable, but this is the famous $99 squat rack. Footprint for racks rarely gets smaller than four square feet, but it pretty much NEVER gets cheaper than this item. There’s a trade-off, of course. The headline number is that the weight rating is 300lbs, which many of you will outgrow if you train assiduously enough.
• It also doesn’t come with spotter arms, and CAP’s holes are such that you need to buy theirs. Which, admittedly, could be worse: at 16″, it just barely meets our standards, and can usually be had for around $25. In its favor is that you can store the bar upright and there’s also a single weight horn in the back, which doubles for plate storage and stability when doing pullups (yes, it has a pullup bar). Its worst features are not readily obvious. First, the uprights are actually not one piece, but two, meaning you have to bolt them together. Second is that the J-Cups are also low quality; they don’t even HAVE lining. Still, no other product offers this many features at this price point, which keeps customers coming back time and again.

Conclusion: four ways to choose a squat rack as command center for your home gym

Choosing the command center for your home gym doesn’t have to be a minefield. Start by measuring your space, then decide which type of rack best fits your needs—always defaulting to a cage if you can. From there, focus on quality safety features and sturdy construction. Get those priorities straight, and you’ll choose a squat rack that will serve you safely for a lifetime of lifting.

Now that you’ve chosen your rack, see how it all comes together in our Ultimate Starter Home Gym Guide.

The bench could very well be the throne of your home gym, suited for the King of Bodybuilding lifts – the Bench Press. But your first mistake in buying a bench for your home gym is to think it’s just about the bench press. There’s so much more you can do with a bench, and understanding that is the key to unlocking gains. I know, because I got this wrong the first time, and had to buy another bench. With guidance, you’ll buy the best home gym bench (for you).

Even if it’s just you, a bench, and some dumbbells, you can, should, and eventually WILL do so much more than just get a nice pump in the pecs. With Bulgarian Split Squats and Single Arm Rows, you’re using the bench for full body workouts.

Stability, therefore, is the paramount quality you need in a bench. This automatically rules out plenty of the cheaper options around, especially the ones that can incline, which are offering you a seemingly enticing feature in exchange for you overlooking their flimsiness. In other posts, I’ve been known to advocate for being smart with your money and not splurging, but when it comes to a bench, there are certain minimum requirements you cannot speculate with.

The best home gym bench is a STABLE bench

So, what provides that paramount stability we’re looking for? It’s not the cushion or the fancy logos; it’s the design of the steel frame underneath. This is the main difference between a budget bench that feels shaky and a quality one that inspires confidence.

There are two common designs you’ll see:

1. The “Dual-Post” or “H-Frame” Design: This is the classic, super-stable design. The bench has two wide, T-shaped legs—one at the front and one at the back—that are welded to a single, heavy-gauge steel spine running the length of the bench. This H-shaped footprint provides maximum side-to-side stability and is common on high-quality flat benches. It’s built like a tank.
2. The “Three-Point” or “Single-Post” Design: This design is very common on adjustable (FID) benches. It typically has a wide, T-shaped leg in the back, but only a single, narrow post for a leg in the front. This is an intentional design choice—the narrow front allows you to plant your feet more freely without the legs getting in the way. However, on cheaper benches, this single front post can be a major point of weakness and wobble if it’s not made from heavy steel and properly engineered.

The Big Decision: Flat vs. Incline

So, flat vs incline? This is actually a fairly simple trade-off. Once you have met the stability requirement, this is a matter of how much variety matters to you, and are you willing to pay for it. Many would argue that with a flat bench and the classic shoulder press, you’re hitting the entirety of your chest and delts, and that’s enough. Others would say that there is nothing quite like the 30-degree incline bench press to hit the upper pecs, which isn’t stimulated to the same degree in the flat bench, and is arguably the ultimate “aesthetics” lift.

Both camps are right. Me? I always seek out the incline, and I advise most people to do the same. While the choice is technically about your goals, let’s be honest: if you’re training for well-rounded chest development and the ‘look’ that most people want, the incline press is a vital tool. Therefore, for the vast majority of lifters, a stable adjustable bench isn’t just a luxury—it’s the smarter long-term investment.

My own history on this is 50/50, but with some caveats. The very first bench I bought is exactly the kind I’m warning you against. I bought it without researching options, or understanding that there was more to working out than a strong bench press. As soon as my workouts started to get even the tiniest bit more sophisticated, the bench showed its limitations. My next three purchases were two inclines and one flat. Go figure.

So, what’s the best home gym bench?

So, I actually think the single best value-for-money bench is, oddly, only available in Europe and not in the States (one day, I’ll explain how it is that I’ve built home gyms in both continents, but that’s a story for another day, another post). The Corength 900 bench by Decathlon delivers an impressive array of premium features and sturdiness at an unmatched price point.

But, you need to find something State-side. I’m going to start with the closest analog, which delivers similar (and possibly even slightly more premium) value, at a “still good vs the alternatives” price point. That bench is the REP AB-3000 2.0.

The All-Arounder: The REP AB-3000 2.0 (Optional) FID Bench

The All-Arounder: The REP AB-3000 FID Adjustable Bench

For the vast majority of home gym owners, a high-quality, stable adjustable bench is the smartest long-term investment. The undisputed champion in the “best value” category is the REP AB-3000 FID Adjustable Bench. It provides a rock-solid platform for all your essential flat and incline pressing movements, using a heavy-duty, ladder-style adjustment system that inspires confidence.

Crucially, the AB-3000 also offers a decline option (making it a true “FID” bench), which is a fantastic feature for those who want maximum versatility for their workouts. While some lifters may choose to save a little money by forgoing the decline feature, we believe the added functionality of the AB-3000 makes it the best and most complete value on the market today.

The Flat Bench Alternative: For the Powerlifting Purist

The Flat Bench Alternative: For the Powerlifting Purist

Of course, not everyone needs or wants an adjustable bench. If your goal is pure stability for heavy pressing and you want to save some money, a high-quality flat bench is a fantastic choice.

Our top recommendation in this category is the Titan Fitness Single Post Flat Bench. It’s an established product, known for bringing premium, “overbuilt” features to an entry-level price point. Its 11-gauge steel frame and 1,000 lb weight capacity are specs typically found on benches costing twice as much. Furthermore, its single-post design allows for optimal foot placement during the bench press, a premium feature rarely seen in this price range. For a sturdy, “buy it for life” flat bench, this is arguably the best value on the market.

“Buy Once, Cry Once”: Money-no-object Best Home Gym Bench

“Buy Once, Cry Once”: The Money-No-Object Bench

Finally, if your budget allows and you simply want the best piece of equipment you can pass down to your kids, you need the king of the heavy-duty adjustable benches. For this, we recommend the REP Fitness AB-5200.

The AB-5200 delivers premium, innovative features at a price that consistently undercuts its top-tier competitors. Its patented zero-gap design is a game-changer, eliminating the annoying gap between the seat and back pad for superior comfort and stability. This is the category leader, so much so that REP sells it exclusively on their own website. We won’t get any commission if you buy this, but if you want the best money can buy, this is our recommendation.

These all sound too expensive, and you’re on a really tight budget? We’ve been there. The thing is, most cheap benches are buys you’ll regret. When fishing in these waters, our recommendation is the CAP Flat Bench.

Conclusion: Choose Your Throne

Choosing your first home gym bench is a big decision, but it doesn’t have to be complicated. Prioritize a stable, well-built frame above all else. From there, decide if the versatility of an adjustable bench fits your training goals and budget. Get those two things right, and you’ll have a throne that will serve you well for years of workouts.

Now that you’ve chosen your bench, see how it fits into a complete, budget-friendly setup in our Ultimate Starter Home Gym Guide.

If you’re even remotely serious about your home gym, you’re going to want a barbell. Barbells are simply unmatched for strength training, as they provide maximum scalability as per the “Progressive Overload” principle. But, to an untrained eye, barbells all look pretty similar, and how many people actually understand knurling, tensile strength, diameter, whippiness, and all that jazz? And most importantly, how do you make a good purchase and stay out of trouble? Well, this guide will cut through the noise and tell you the only three things that really matter for your home gym’s first barbell.

So, what are the top priorities? 

The Only 3 Things That Really Matter for your Home Gym’s First Barbell:

Priority #1: The Right Dimensions (7ft, 45lb, 2-inch sleeves – the non-negotiables).

There’s basically two kinds of barbells: the “standard” and the “Olympic”. I use scare-quotes because the names are semantically misleading. “Standard” barbells tend to be about 5 to 6 ft long, and about 1″ in diameter. They’re common in “old school” home gyms. As a teenager, I wanted to bench press at home. We bought a flimsy little bench rack at a Big Box store, and the barbell/weight plate setup was “standard”. It worked fine for a while, but their weight capacity is limited, and I outgrew it quickly.

That leaves us with the “Olympic” barbell. This is what you find in most commercial gyms, even though most athletes aren’t using them for Olympic lifts, and the versions in commercial gyms are rarely optimized for Olys. Nevertheless, that’s what they’re called: for men, these are 7ft, 45lb bars suited for weight plates that have a 2″ diameter hole in the middle. You grip the bar at a diameter between 28 to 29mm, which is thicker than with “standard” barbells. The cheapest Olympic barbells can be loaded up to well over 500lbs; likely 700lbs. If they’re any good at all, they could take 1,000lbs, and while they will bend (and “whip” is desirable for Olympic lifters), they won’t break.

For women, the Olympic barbell is 6ft long, weighs 35lbs, and generally is gripped at 25mm. Otherwise, they’re basically the same as a man’s barbell.

As I said, my first barbell was a “standard” barbell, and once I gave my cousin a “standard” set as a birthday gift, but this was largely to adapt to his floor and storage space. It also suited his light weight, high-rep preference for training.

But, for just about everyone else, I strongly recommend the Olympic barbell setup as a first barbell for a home gym.

Priority #2: The Finish (Feel vs. Rust Protection)

The finish on a barbell is a practical choice between how the bar feels in your hand and how well it resists rust in your specific environment.

• Hard Chrome: This is the industry standard for a reason, and it’s what you find in a commercial gym. It’s that shiny steel look. Further, it’s very low-maintenance and offers great rust protection, making it ideal for a garage or basement. The trade-off is that the coating can make the grip feel slightly slicker than bare steel.
• Black Oxide: This finish provides a much better grip because there’s less material between your hand and the steel itself. However, it offers minimal rust protection and will require occasional wipe-downs with oil to stay in good condition.
• Stainless Steel: This is the premium “best of both worlds” option. It provides the great grip of an oxide bar but has rust resistance that is even better than chrome. As you’d expect, this performance comes with a higher price tag.

My home gym barbells are hard chrome, and in some cases, the grip area is painted in black zinc. But they’ve been more than good enough for me.  I’m getting commercial gym-quality at home.  Not bad for a first barbell for a home gym.

Priority #3: The Right Price

I’ll die on this hill: it’s hard to find a quality 7ft barbell for under $100, but I find it even harder to justify going much over $200, especially for a first barbell for a home gym. $150 is a very good budget for a general purpose barbell that will serve for both the “slow lifts” like bench press, squats or deadlifts, but also for Olympic lifting variants. Most aspirational home gym owners will practice slow lifts; many will dabble in Olympic lifting variants; and very few train specifically for Olympic lifts. If you’re a highly specialized athlete, there’s a case for splurging on the barbell, but truth be told, for the vast majority, if you’re doing this, it’s discretionary, not necessary.

3. What Doesn’t Matter (Yet/As Much) for a Home Gym’s First Barbell?

Tensile Strength

Tensile strength measures the maximum stress a material can withstand before it starts to permanently deform or break. It’s measured in Pounds per Square Inch (PSI). Imagine pulling on a steel rod from both ends; the PSI value tells you how many pounds of force could be applied to every square inch of that rod before it’s compromised. A higher PSI rating means a stronger, more durable steel that is less likely to bend permanently under heavy loads.

High-end barbells have tensile strength over 190,000 PSI. For a home gym user, 150,000+ PSI is perfectly reliable. My barbells have usually been in the 160,000 to 165,000 range, and I’ve never felt the need to have more. They bend slightly when they’re racked with over 300lbs, which sounds about right. Plus, it kind of looks and feels cool. They’ve never had a single issue.

Knurling: 

“Knurling” is the etched crosshatch pattern on the parts of the barbell you grip. Its job is simple: to increase friction so the bar doesn’t slip out of your hands. All decent barbells have it. While advanced lifters might debate the merits of “aggressive” vs. “passive” knurling, for your first barbell, this is not a detail to worry about. Any standard knurling will provide the grip you need to train safely and effectively.

And, if anything, if you go unconventional, you risk purchasing something that doesn’t match what you’re used to at all from the commercial gym. This is rarely a space where you want to get creative.

Put it this way: if you don’t know what specific knurling you need, then you need standard. Remember, this is your first barbell for a home gym, and this particular variable is not a dealmaker or dealbreaker.

Bearings vs. Bushings: 

Inside the sleeves (the ends of the barbell where you put the weights), there is a mechanism that allows them to spin independently from the bar. This is crucial for exercises like cleans or snatches to prevent wrist strain.

Bushings are simple, low-friction rings (usually bronze) that sit between the bar and the sleeve. They provide a good, reliable spin and are extremely durable.

Bearings (specifically needle bearings) are composed of small needles that allow for a much faster, smoother, and longer spin.

Not only is there the matter of category, but there is the number of each.

I’ve usually bought bearings barbells, usually from 2 to 4, though 8 is the gold standard. I think 4 is the sweet spot. But that’s because I do enjoy some Olympic lifting. For general strength training—squats, bench press, deadlifts, and even basic Olympic lifting—bushings are perfectly fine and are the standard for bars in the budget-friendly to all-arounder price range. The super-fast spin of bearings is really only necessary for competitive Olympic weightlifters who need every possible advantage (or, as is the case with consumers, just because it’ll make you happier).

4. Our Top 3 “First Home Gym Barbell” Picks

Now for the fun part. What should we buy? (Note: All prices are based on my last update in mid-2025 and are subject to change.)

If you’re leaning towards Olympic lifts with a Sub-$200 budget…

The Logic: If you’re performing Olympic lifts (or even just dabbling with power cleans), you need a bar that spins fast. This is non-negotiable for protecting your wrists and ensuring a proper catch. The key feature is needle bearings, which allow the sleeves to rotate smoothly under load. Historically, this feature came with a high price tag, but a few high-value brands now offer it at a price that’s accessible to everyone.

Our Pick: The Synergee Open Bar

Why: The Synergee Open Bar is our top recommendation for the “Best Value Olympic Bar.” It delivers the key features of a dedicated Oly bar—a whippy 28mm shaft and fast-spinning needle bearings—at a price that won’t break the bank. Whether you’re training the full competition lifts or just want a high-performance bar for dynamic movements, this is the smartest value on the market.

If you’re leaning towards a Powerlifting bar with a Sub-$200 budget…

The Logic: If you have no plans to perform the fast Olympic lifts, then your focus is on the “big three”: squat, bench, and deadlift. For these heavy, slow lifts, you want a stiffer, thicker bar. A 29mm shaft provides more rigidity and feels more secure on your back during heavy squats. A center knurl is also a key feature, as it helps the bar “stick” to you during squats.

Our Pick: The Titan Fitness Performance Power Bar

Why: The Titan Performance Power Bar is our top pick in this category. It delivers the ideal 29mm shaft and a medium center knurl that provides excellent grip without being overly sharp. For the lifter who wants to build their training around the classic strength lifts, this bar offers the key features of a dedicated power bar at an entry-level price.

You’re looking for good value in an All-Arounder bar

The Logic: What if you want to do it all? CrossFit, powerlifting, and general training? Then you need a hybrid bar that hits the “sweet spot.” This means a 28.5mm diameter shaft (right between Oly and Power bars) and dual knurl marks so you can set your grip correctly for any lift. It’s the most versatile choice for the lifter who wants maximum flexibility.

Our Pick: The Vulcan Bravo Barbell

Why: The Vulcan Bravo is our top pick for the “Best Value All-Arounder.” It hits that perfect 28.5mm “sweet spot” diameter and has all the features of a high-quality, versatile bar—dual knurl marks, a solid 165k PSI tensile strength, and a durable chrome finish. Vulcan is an extremely respected specialist brand, and getting one of their bars at this price point is a huge win. For the vast majority of lifters who want a “buy once, cry once” bar without the crying, this is it.

The budget pick: CAP Barbell Beast Bar

We mentioned it earlier, but if you’re really tight on budget, it’s quite easy to buy a crap barbell you’ll regret. Most ‘budget’ vendors are no-names and don’t even know what they’re producing, really. CAP’s offering is inferior to the recommendations above, but they have a long enough track record in the budget space that you know what you get with them, and it’s perfectly valid to train and obtain gains with.

Conclusion: Your First, and Possibly Last, Barbell

When it comes to buying your first barbell for a home gym, don’t get lost in the noise. The path to a great decision is straightforward:

• Nail the Dimensions: Start and end your search with a standard 7ft, 45lb Olympic barbell. It’s the universal standard for a reason.
• Pick a Finish for Your Reality: Choose a practical finish that suits your environment and maintenance preference—whether that’s low-fuss chrome or great-grip oxide.
• Buy for Your Budget: A solid, reliable bar doesn’t need to cost a fortune. A budget between $150 and $200 will get you a fantastic piece of equipment that will last you for years.

Now that you’ve chosen your barbell, see how it fits into a complete, budget-friendly setup in our Ultimate Starter Home Gym Guide.